We pulled away from the dock in Meldrum just before 8 am. The sky was hazy with that look to it that makes you wonder what the weather is really going to do. It wasn’t yellow and we didn’t hear freight trains so assumed all was OK. There is no cell service in Meldrum and hence no radar pictures to check on. One of the large trawlers on our dock had already left, travelling west, but the other two were staying on. As we left the harbour behind us we could see a small village struggling with the 21st century and the cost of bringing back the population which has left for economic reasons. All the lumber mills closed years ago. The general store is closed also so the closest place to purchase any amenities is at Gore Bay, a two hour boat run at high speed or about an hour down the road. The Inn will sell milk and bread if you’re desperate. The docks are small and in behind the old steel crib docks which the freighters used to use. These can be a challenge to docking on a windy day. There are washrooms but they are a long walk past the dock so not really useful. Most people use Meldrum as a place to check in with customs - phone in - and to gas up and maybe stay over one night. The young man running the marina was friendly and helpful, even making our dinner reservations for us at The Inn.

We were impressed with The Meldrum Bay Inn, which is a wonderful large house about 100 years old, bought by an American couple who became tired of the rat race and they have turned it into an inn with a dining room. They prepare a special dish each evening and have about 10 standard items on their menu. In addition, they will cook any fish that you catch. The parlour of the downstairs to the right of the main stairs is used to gather for hors d’oeuvres and the dining area is on the other side of the stairs. You have the distinct feeling that you have been invited for Sunday dinner. The bar was tended by a gent with a long grey beard, a black muscle shirt and lots of tattoos. He reminded us of the chef in an inn near Heathrow airport. A really great guy. The owners welcome you and serve you as well as having other help in the kitchen and dining room. The meal was excellent. And how can you turn down fresh cherry pie and blueberry pie for which they hand-picked the berries? Everyone was exceptionally friendly and of course since many were boaters, there was great talk of places visited and weather experienced or expected. We chatted with a couple from Detroit in a 42 ft SeaRay who had three children with them. They were travelling with another boat and had taken 12 hours to get to Meldrum from Detroit, had dinner at the restaurant, and were then moving on to an anchorage after dinner. They are out for only one week’s vacation - that’s a long way to come and return in just a week.

We also met a chap our age from Rousseau Lake, ON, whose daughter had given him a salmon fishing trip for his birthday. Having driven up from Toronto for 12 hours (including the ferry trip to Manitoulin), he was staying at the inn for two nights and had to be at the charter boat at 5:30 am for 5 hours of fishing. He invited us for lunch to share his hoped-for salmon catch but we had to pass on that one.

The route from Meldrum Bay to Gore Bay is without hazard straight across the top of Manitoulin Island. As we passed the headlands, we could see excellent evidence of the high limestone cliffs which are the extension of the Niagara Escarpment cliffs. The sun was in our eyes and reflecting highly on the water. Even with sunglasses on we were squinting. Take the glasses off and we both look like racoons - even with the SPF1000!

We follow the north shoreline of Manitoulin IslandThe wind started picking up from the southwest, coming straight over the island and because this north shore of the island has large peninsulas indented with large deep bays, even with the protection of the island between us and the wind on Lake Huron, the wind was able to create rather large erratic waves coming out of the bays, just for us. We were able to maintain a plane but there were places where we were skewered around and the helm got a little bit wet! With the hot sun, the splashes in the face were quite refreshing. When we arrived in Gore Bay we immediately checked the milk. It didn’t turn to butter as has happened before so we can’t rate it as a bad trip. It was hard on Phil though, hanging onto the wheel and trying to steer through the waves to take them at the best angle. At one point I was counting down to the larger waves so he had a better idea of when to be prepared for them. Whatever works!

The visibility was good and we were able to see the north shore of the channel about 20 kms to the north. Using the height and the outlines of the hills we can work out approximately where we are in relation to the charts, using that as a quick course check. The Canadian charts include topographical lines for the land as well as the shoreline which makes finding your position very easy. The US charts that we have do not include any land topography at all which I found frustrating. I don’t fully trust the GPS yet - although we have had no further difficulties - so I like to have that visual reference.

We arrived here about 10 am and the Gore Bay Marina is quite nice. There are floating docks so the fenders had to be dropped quite low to the water. We are tied for a hurricane as the wind is still up as I write this at 4 pm and it isn’t expected to drop for awhile yet. The docks have steadily filled all day and the sky is clouding over with what look like storm clouds. I was just talking on the phone to Son #2, Trevor, who is boating with his family in the St. Lawrence River. He flies for a living and said he was flying over the weather band we were talking about last night and he said it wasn’t fun so I think maybe we made a good decision to turn around.

[Note: Over 25 tornadoes were spotted on radar crossing Lake Michigan the day we left St. Ignace, a fact we didn't learn until much later. We made a good decision, go with the "gut".]

After securing, we checked out the Canadian Yacht Charter marina store which has quite a good inventory of boat supplies. They also charter trawlers and sailboats in the North Channel. We have seen many of their boats out on the water this summer.

Looking North up Gore Bay, Docks on Left

Then we went for a walk to the main street, which is one above Water St., the road by the docks, and about 4 blocks long, to find a place for coffee. We dropped into the bank, first time in weeks (not worried about enough money as we still have cheques left so there must be some still in the bank), found the laundromat and the grocery stores which will be visited tomorrow (even though it is a civic holiday we didn’t see any signs that they would be closed) and had second breakfast at one of the restaurants which was very nice. We are really going to have to increase our work-out load at the “Y” when we get back to get rid of all these second breakfasts. I was chatting the other day with a lady in the washroom and mentioned that we had a second breakfast after arriving that day and she said that that was the best meal of the day on their boat!

Tonight we will be having a light supper on board, spend some time reading up on the history of this area, and resting up for tomorrow’s maintenance day.

For those who are checking out our web-site at http://www.anchorageworld.com/ these pages are being updated by Son #1 who is in the process of moving out of one house into an apartment while their new house is being built so they are not up to date but I am sure they will be soon or his inheritance position may change.

A footnote here about the storm we encountered in Bell Cove several weeks ago: We read in the Manitoulin newspaper today that this storm had recorded winds of 254 kph.

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